Crane Club’s parmesan-aged strip, Bar Oliver’s $37 skirt steak, the crispy duck at Bridges, and more. Also a few words on Tete D'Or's olive-fed wagyu| www.thelotimes.com
Your definitive guide to steaks that cost $22 to $45. Plus: Meaty reviews of The Snail, Papa San, NY Kimchi, Lori Jayne, and elsewhere| www.thelotimes.com