Plus, Eleven Madison Park's return to meat, Tejal Rao's review of Taqueria Frontera, and Hugh Merwin on the disappearing fruteros of Los Angeles| www.thelotimes.com
Thoughts on Dynamo Room and "Steakhouse Alley,' plus, reviews of the skewers at Miss Ada, Rule of Thirds, and an essay on Amy Sherald's "American Sublime"| www.thelotimes.com