Other things are rarely equal. All things never are. What the ocean does: swell direction and height, wave interval, secondary swell, wind strength, tide (high or low, spring or neap), dawn or dusk, rain or shine, bake or freeze. The contours of the seabed and the beach: where the reef begins, where the sand’s shifted,… Read More »| Driverless Crocodile
Disclaimer: I’m an intermediate surfer. This post is for people a step or two behind me, so your mileage may vary – let me know what I’ve missed in the comments. I’m convinced that most surf coaching videos and websites spend way too much time talking about the pop up* and way too little time… Read More »Surfing: Why does it help to arch your back when paddling? (it isn’t for leverage) – Surf Lessons #8 The post Surfing: Why does it help to arch your back when paddling? (it is...| Driverless Crocodile