Today was like a summer day with cold water.
ArtLung| ArtLung
It was big. Surfers could not get out. Waves too big and crashy. Windy. Not appealing to surfers because there’s no wave lip to ride, the waves just crash over into whitewater. I saw another bodysurfer out. I love being out in big chaotic surf. Keeps me on my toes.| ArtLung
A surfer said to me on Friday: “Finally!” I asked… “Finally?” “Winter’s Here” he said. Big waves, closeouts. Fun.| ArtLung
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