The souks are labyrinthine. I press my fingers to a sand-colored wall, letting its surface cool me while I pause in the shade. Just beyond this side alley is another stretch of stores, textile-themed: glittering dresses, silks, shoes. So far I've already found Chanel perfume dupes and 'Viagra stones', but Old Dubai has far more in store for visitors. This historical area of the city is nothing like the 10-lane roads, ambitiously sculpted artificial islands, and overgrowth of glass and
