“See? It doesn’t move.” Mr. Kim, my group’s guide for the day, gleefully blows at the sheet of paper held to his face. “Hanji is extremely breathable and can regulate humidity, so it was traditionally used for insulating doors and windows. And it lasts for thousands of years, too, making it the perfect archival medium.” Anyone who calls themselves a writer, I believe, has some degree of obsession with paper. We hoard ever-pristine notebooks, believing them too beautiful for our [...