The general thesis of the craft-brewing “movement” — such as it was/is — at its founding midway through last century was that beer wasn’t a commodity until macrobrewers made it into one. This was a compelling thesis, and I think it’s borne out by the facts. But craft brewing is just one small segment of the overall beer industry, which is governed by theses of its own, such as the importance of market access, the superiority of scale, and the basic reality that if you can’t beat...
