“In fair Verona where we lay our scene”. Reading this line in the opening monologue of Shakespeare’s iconic Romeo and Juliet for the first time a decade ago is why visiting Verona has been at the top of my Italian bucket list. The same can probably be said for the thousands of travellers who flock the city each month, hoping to bask in the charm and literary aura of this very special place. However, beyond its connections to Renaissance tragedy (or romance if that’s how you see it),...