The other day, I watched from the beach as Steve took my daughter out to Waiohai for a surf session. The swell was coming in heavy, the chop was relentless, and most folks out there were fighting for their lives. Not Steve. He’d spring up on his self-shaped board, plant his feet closer together than any surf coach would recommend, and lean back like he was rolling a lowrider down Whittier Boulevard without a care in the world. When the wave closed out, he’d step off clean… no leash, no ...
