When we stumble more by luck than judgment on a tourist information office near the ferry point, the lady is more than eager to present us with a glossy booklet entitled “Setúbal, Portugal’s Best Kept Secret”. Well, there’s enough people here for it not to be called a secret, but, given how lovely the city and surrounding area is, it’s definitely surprising that Setúbal wouldn’t appear on most people’s list of favourite destinations in Portugal. It’s on ours, for sure. Setú...