Given the unquestionably subjective nature of wine appreciation, I think it’s worth taking a moment to try and define how I approach wine. When evaluating wine for publication, I use a few key points that I always try to keep in mind. A wine has to provide both hedonistic and intellectual pleasure. Wine is a beverage of pleasure, and it’s critical never to forget that. For a wine to be great, you had better want to have another sip, pour another glass, and hopefully buy another bottle. No...