Delis are hardwired into the Jewish American experience. They're the all-day diners where the corned beef sandwiches are the size of your face; the old-school eateries where bagels and lox aren’t just a breakfast food; the buzzing gathering place for having matzo ball soup and golden latkes nowhere near the holidays with which they’re associated. --- On the East Coast and in L.A., delis are so ubiquitous that a child’s first pastrami on rye is almost a rite of passage. But not in the Ba...