Stepping into Gus’ Sip & Dip from the bustle of Hubbard Street in Chicago’s River North neighborhood, one could be forgiven for thinking the place has been here for years. Maybe it’s the hug of the wraparound, Brunswick-style wood bar and white oak-paneled walls, or the soft clink of shakers by bartenders in crisp white jackets while trays of pert burgers and $12 — yes, $12 — Martinis circulate as if on an infinite loop. Or maybe this transient neighborhood, whose overarching bar id...
