I remember the first time I ever ate at Thai Tanic, our local neighborhood thai place. I remember thinking: this is… good! I mean, not best pad thai of your life on the streets of Bangkok good, but much better than you’d expect from the truly terrible name. Put this in the category of other things you don’t expect: Tsunami Sushi, the related place upstairs, randomly added a “traditional” Thai menu. In a neighborhood that already has Little Serow (not to mention Doi Moi), I...