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Climbing is hard on the fingers. If you climb/train frequently at a rigorous level, then there’s a good chance you’ve experienced finger pain and perhaps even injury. Obviously, then, it would be smart to do anything reasonably possible to reduce your risk of finger injury. New research has revealed a coupled training-nutritional intervention that can Read More The post “Prehab” Finger Training You Can Do Each Day appeared first on Nicros.| Nicros
Hi Eric! I am an avid listener of your podcast, and I have a question about hangboard training. I have been hangboarding for the last two years, and because I am a boulderer I do max hangs with three minutes off between reps and five minutes off between sets. I do three reps per set. Read More The post Round 182 appeared first on Nicros.| Nicros
Fear of failure wields tremendous power over climbers who possess an unbending need for success. Ironically, the fear of failure tends to produce failure because it leads to a tight, timid approach of trying not to blow it. A good example of this in mainstream sports is how often a football team gives up the Read More The post Overcoming the Fear of Failure appeared first on Nicros.| Nicros
What makes great climbers great? You might be thinking of things like “strong fingers”, “low bodyfat, and “excellent sponsorship”. Surely these are part of the equation, however, I believe the true Superpowers of these climbers are things you can’t measure with a fitness test or financial summary. In this podcast I present 8 Superpowers of Read More The post Podcast: The 8 Superpowers of Top Climbers appeared first on Nicros.| Nicros
Many climbing injuries develop as a result of training and climbing too much. As a rule, intensive climbing/training should be limited to two to four days per week with only lighter exercise (or rest) the other days of the week. Adequate muscle recovery is critical in order to improve strength and power over the Read More The post Finger Training You Can Do Every Day! appeared first on Nicros.| Nicros
Hi Eric, I contacted you a while back about a decision to move closer to a climbing gym or stay in St. George where there is more rock. Thankfully, after receiving your advice I have since moved close to the Momentum climbing gym in Lehi, UT. I wanted to thank you for your response and Read More The post Round 181 appeared first on Nicros.| Nicros
While the daily protein requirement for a sedentary person is modest (0.8 gram per kilogram of body weight), hard-training athletes like us climbers require significantly more. This article offers guidance on how to supplement your dietary protein for optimal performance and recovery. How Much Protein Do You Need? The American College of Sports Medicine recommends Read More The post Protein Needs For Climbers appeared first on Nicros.| Nicros
In this video, Jonathan Hörst leads you through a challenging 4-minute plank routine. This rigorous multi-plank sequence works both anterior and posterior core muscle groups, as well as the obliques and numerous hip muscles involved in hip flexion and abduction. And, as you will soon discover, your shoulders and scapular stabilizers will also get seriously Read More The post 4-Minute Plank for Climbers appeared first on Nicros.| Nicros
Hi Eric! Every time I read again your book Training for Climbing I find in it new inspirations and new ideas for my training days. Very great Book! Question: I’m trying to grasp how to train aerobic power versus anaerobic capacity (strength-endurance). The protocols you describe for each sound similar–Is possible to train specifically only Read More The post Round 180 appeared first on Nicros.| Nicros