Armida Sanchez stood patiently over the stove as a pan full of vegetable oil came to a gleam. I'd just returned from morning fishing with her husband, Rolando, on the icy lagoon outside the salt mining town of Guerrero Negro halfway down the Baja Peninsula's Pacific Coast. While we were gone, Armida had sliced and battered long strips of shark meat and filled a wheel-shaped dish with pickled onion, shredded cabbage, charred green chilies reclining in a pool of soy sauce, and thick white cream...
