For all his many (many, many) faults, J. Paul Getty had a pretty useful philosophy on debt service. “If you owe the bank $100, that’s your problem,” the oil magnate is widely credited with saying, “but if you owe the bank $100 million, that’s the bank’s problem.” Craft breweries’ problem — well, one of them — is that they’re stuck in the middle. Many borrowed heavily against boom-year growth to build handsome, state-of-the-art facilities that would serve their expansiona...