“Salmon-Safe Certified” read the cardboard box that had just arrived at now-closed Brick Brewery in south-east London, dropped unceremoniously by a courier. Neither I nor the Brick team could fathom what that meant—I’d later learn that it’s a certification that agricultural products in the Pacific Northwest are grown to standards that help protect wild Pacific salmon—but we knew there was something exciting inside. This was July 2019, and I was brewing a collaboration with Brick a...
