It is a sedate summer’s afternoon in the bar of The Globe in Topsham, five miles outside Exeter. Wimbledon is on the big screen, with the sound turned down, and there are five other customers inside. More sit around the outside tables at the back of this former coaching inn owned by St. Austell Brewery. I amble to the bar: “pint of Proper Job please.” “This and Tribute are our two bestsellers,” the young bartender replies. “I drink it myself and think part of its appeal is that it...
