In the heart of Erbil, where modern life hums around an ancient hill, history still breathes through stone. The Erbil Citadel — a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited places — rises above the city like a memory that refuses to fade. Beneath it, the Old Bazaar buzzes with life: men sip tea and smoke shisha under the autumn sun, children feed pigeons, and the aroma of kebabs drifts through narrow lanes once walked by traders and conquerors alike....
