Before Mount Etna became the darling of the Sicilian wine scene, there was Nero d’Avola. The indigenous red variety was all but synonymous with Sicilian wine — robust, reliable, usually inexpensive, and widely available. Since it was (and is) grown throughout the island, there was no shortage of it, and plenty to export. It had buzz in the United States. Nowadays, Nero d’Avola shares the Sicilian wine stage with Etna Rossos and Etna Biancos, which have gained well-deserved international...
